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Dolina Kobylańska - 8 października 2006

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  1. Wstępu słów kilka
  2. Króciutka relacja
  3. Wasze komentarze

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Wstępu słów kilka Dwa tygodnie temu po udanym wypadzie na Sokolicę w końcu zdecydowałem się zaatakować coś w Tatrach. Mateusz zaproponował mi jedną z prostszych dróg - Środkowe Żebro Skrajnego Granatu Sprzedałem temat Mariuszowi.. Droga krótka, prosta - decyzja zapadła. Wyjazd przełożyłem jednak z zeszłego weekendu na ten 7-8 październik. Jednak niestety - brak kontaktu z Mariuszem a czas leciał.. Skończyło się na wyjeździe nie wspinaczkowym do osady Dziejba - wioska stawiana przez znajomą JUBIego. Dalej Kalwaria Zebrzydowska i dróżki i zdjęcia.. Ogólnie wyjazd raczej nie górski. W planie był wschód / zachód w Gorcach / Tatrach, ale w efekcie powróciliśmy do Krakowa na sobotni wieczór.
Cóż zrobić - zadzwoniłem do Kortasa. Plan awaryjny - jedziemy w skałki. Jeszcze nie wiedziałem gdzie i kiedy i jak.. ale już samo założenie wystarczyło :)

Króciutka relacja Decyzję podjąłem rano - jednak Kobylany. Z Kortasem zabrał się jego znajomy - Radek. Wór miałem cholernie ciężki - a po zgubieniu pasa biodrowego dwa tygodnie temu na Sokolicy poczułem istotnie jego wagę.. Kortas miał w autobus wsiąść w Bronowicach a ja na rondzie pod Makro. Nie obyło się bez problemów - chłopaki się na autobus spóźnili, więc już zacząłem kombinować co tu robić.. na szczęście jakimś cudem go dogonili już na przystanku pod wiaduktami :)
Dalej już spokojnie. Krótkie zapoznanie, 30 minut jazdy i Kobylany. Do dolinki już pieszo. Po drodze sklepik, przeterminowane gumy do żucia.. Jak za starych lat ;)
Na początek Kula i jej północna ściana. Jest tam poprowadzonych i obitych z pięć dróg. Są stosunkowo świeże (2 lata?), więc na wielu skałoplanach nie istnieją - nawet jako DDSy. Ścianę mi "sprzedał" Mariusz - robił ją na kursie owego dnia gdy się nie pojawiłem (szukałem wtedy chłopaków w Będkowskiej - nie dogadaliśmy się). Na początek Kortas poprowadził prawą rysą (Prawa Rysa IV+), a później przywędkował Radek. Początek gorszy - później już z górki. Ja tą drogę sobie odpuściłem - robiłem ją już jakiś czas temu. Wziąłem się natomiast za drogę środkową - Alarm dla Nietoperzy VI.1+. Na początek przewieszka, a później po drobnych chwytach dalej do góry. Jako, że ślisko, zimno i na dzień dobry takowo też zdecydowałem się ją wziąć na wędkę - po co nadstawiać karku.. Istotnie początek nie ciekawy - strasznie ślisko (skała nie wyschła po opadach nocnych - w końcu nastawa północna - do tego schowana w lesie). Chwyty ostre strasznie - już na dzień dobry poczułem, że opuszki mi tego nie wybaczą. Zrobiłem ze dwa, może trzy podejścia do przewieszki próbując ją wybadać - da rady. Robiłem ją już kiedyś - lecz wtedy byłem mocno rozgrzany i w lekko lepszej formie. Tak czy owak puścić musiała, lotów nie było.. miodnie. Dalej do góry - jeszcze kilka problemów po drodze i wiwat. Okazało się, że chłopaki puścili wędkę z niższego stanowiska - tego przygotowanego dla liny 50 - metrowej. I dobrze - dalej raczej mało ciekawie - choć pod względem widokowym i owszem - zdecydowanie lepiej :)
Drogę jeszcze wymęczył Kortas latając ze dwa, trzy razy na przewieszce. Ale pełna rehabilitacja dalej - przy kolejnej trudności (ja ją wytrawersowałem - nie podobała mi się a i ducha walki nie było już) bardzo ładnie się wybił "w ciemno" w miejsce gdzie "zdaje się jest chwyt". No i był :) Przyznam się że ja takich akrobacji nie lubię i nie stosuję - nawet na wędce.. jeszcze bym się przyzwyczaił :P Radzio natomiast przewieszki nie wymęczył (i nie dziwne - trzeci czy czwarty raz w skałach.. i tak sobie świetnie radził). Zebraliśmy się na dół - resztę dróg pozostawiliśmy. Zimno się zrobiło - trza nam się było dogrzać w słońcu, które na polanie pod Żabim Koniem grzało wspaniale :)
Dalej pojawił się problem strikte polityczny. Gwałt na Marcinkiewiczu czy Marcinkowskim.. Marcinkiewicz (o zgrozo - jeszcze na nim nie byłem) wabił słoneczkiem i zapewne groził mydłem. Marcinkowski.. jeden z moich bardziej ulubionych kursowych DDSów :) Do tego się człowiek nie wymęczy tak bardzo - a trochę mnie leń pożerał. Poza tym wychodzę z założenia, że na każdy dzień wspinaczki jeden DDS to akurat żeby trzymać formę psychiczną :) Dlatego wybór padł na tego drugiego.
Po dość długiej drodze (akurat się wygrzaliśmy) dotarliśmy w końcu pod skałę. Gdzieśtam w okolicy wyłoniła się Sepia Baszta oraz Wronia Baszta - pamiętałem je z kursu w KW. Szpej na zewnątrz i do góry założyć stanowisko zjazdowe. Założyłem długą taśmę na dwóch kamieniach, zabezpieczyłem repem przywiązanym na sztywno do kamienia i przełożonym przez ową taśmę. Na koniec karabinek zakręcany.. stanowisko super. Teraz znów na dół (nie chciało mi się targać liny i zjeżdżać - szkoda czasu - można naokoło) i... do góry.
Początek Środkowym Marcinkowskim - spokojnie wycenione na III. Kości siedziały ładnie, stopnie nawet nie tak bardzo śliskie.. dało rady. Założyłem z 6 - 7 wpinek, jedną taśme przez kolucho... i akurat stanowisko. Wytrzymało - jakoś zjechałem :) Następnie Kortas to samo - dał rady. Kilka uwag tylko i już bez problemów. A na koniec Radzio - na wędkę. Bardzo ładnie i składnie.
Tutaj zapadła decyzja. Wracamy autobusem 16.40 z Kobylan. Niestety kolejny dopiero po 20tej, co rozbiło by zupełnie wieczór. Dlatego też pozwoliliśmy sobie jeszcze na jedną drogę (Prawy Marcinkowski: IV- DDS) i z powrotem - na przystanek. Problem jednak pojawił się jeszcze pod skała po spakowaniu szpeja. Godzina 16.20.. spod Turni Marcinkowskiego w 20 minut na przystanek z tyloma gratami... No trudno - biegniemy. Kaplica - szybkim biegiem przez całą dolinkę, mijając Okręt, Płetwę, Bodzia, Marcinkiewicza, Żabiego Konia, Kulę i wiele innych.. w końcu ujście dolinki. Mamy jeszcze 13 minut. Da rady. Gdzieś tam dalej już odpuściłem bieg - ile można. Chłopaki gdzieś zniknęli za zakrętem. W 10 minut spokojnym tempem zdążę spokojnie. I zdążyłem... :) Na przystanku sporo ludzi - sporo też ze skałek. Dalej już tyllko autobus, trochę śmiechu, pożegnanie.. i do następnego (albo raczej z Kortasem do poniedziałku na sekcji w Reni Sporcie ;) ).
Szkoda, że tego dnia nie robiliśmy zdjęć.. trudno - może następnym razem :) Ogólnie coraz zimniej - lecz nie można powiedzieć, że gorzej. Bardzo przyjemny i śmieszny wypad. I DDS, i jakaś VIka - czego nam więcej potrzeba... Może tylko żal tego piwa, którego nie było przed powrotem.. cóż - tym razem bez auta (choć auto piwo wyklucza), a MPK niestety jeździ w godzinach, za które ktoś powinien odpowiedzieć ;)

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::Sliwa ([email protected]) 2008-01-18 14:13:00
nie zła przygoda :D tez byłem w jurze i było wpsaniale , skałki ktore
sie tam znajduja sa bardzo ciekawe . Cieszy mnie ze ktos opisuje takie
przygody , kilkoma słowami mozna zrobic smaki komuś kto zatanawiał se
czy wybrac sie w najblizszym czasie do kobylan :D pozdrawiam
::docent ([email protected]) 2007-06-22 16:36:00
Miło słyszeć, że ktoś to wogóle czyta ;) A samych opisów będzie
przybywać z czasem.. na razie w tym sezonie bryndza zupełna - ale może
się coś w końcu rozrusza :)
::M ([email protected]) 2007-06-22 15:12:00
Fajnie że komuś się chce opisywać takie zwyczajne wypady w skały :-)
Takie opisy są bardzo pocieszające dla tych którzy w skałach w danej
chwili nie mogą być, a zwłaszcza jeżeli mogą bywać tylko raz-kilka
razy do roku (bo mają do nich kilkaset kilometrów :-( ). Dzięki i
pozdrawiam !
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